Tiny foundation piecing pincushions with free template

I am not very experienced with foundation piecing but last time I made some foundation piecing blocks I quite enjoyed the process and discovered a handful of its benefits, one of them being that your blocks look perfect or almost. With that in mind I thought that foundation piecing would also be a good way to make rather small blocks with little fuss and have them look really good.

Having finished my Farmer’s wife quilt sampler recently I thought I would just reduce some nice blocks to about 5 inches square and try them out. So I went to the Yahoo! FWQS group where you can get all the foundation piecing templates for this quilt under Files, got the template for Windmill and Waste not, reduced them to about 5 inch squares and put them into a page for you to download.

For this project you need small fabric scraps big enough to cover each individual piece and have at least 1/4 in around each of them, including the outer edges. For the pincushion use polyfill or batting scraps.

Foundation piecing

I made a foundation piecing tutorial a while ago but I will go through the process again.

Cut your template leaving 1/4 inch around the edges.

Then fold along the printed lines. Use a piece of plastic or thin cardboard to help you.

Now cut the pieces. To waste as little fabric as possible measure each piece on the largest sides as well as the length. You will end up with squares or rectangles. Sometimes like in this case you can cut a square and then use it in both triangles. My squares, pink and orange, were around 3 1/2 inches square. Then I cut both squares on the diagonal.

The process is always the same. Start with your piece number 1.

Place it on the wrong side making sure that you have 1/4 inch seam allowance all around.

Pin the piece.

Now trim the piece. To do that, fold along the line you pressed earlier and then cut leaving 1/4 inch allowance.

Now the stitching starts between piece 1 and 2.

Align both pieces, right sides together, and pin together and to the paper.

Turn paper around and stitch between piece 1 and 2 along the line.

Time to trim piece 2.

Turn over and fold the paper between piece 2 and 3.

Trim leaving 1/4 inch allowance.

Add piece 3 aligning your piece with the previous trimmed piece.

And so on. The process is the same. Trim, add next piece, align, stitch, trim, and so on.

You place on the back of the paper and stitch following the lines on the front.

Once you have both pieces, stitch them together using a 1/4 inch allowance.

And there you have it, a 5 inch block.

Press well.

Pincushion

After making the block what to do with it. I always do something with my samples, be a potholder, a pincushion, even a quilt! At 5 inch square I chose a pincushion design I can donate for a good cause or give as a gift.

Cut the back of the pincushion using the block.

Stitch around all sides leaving a 1 inch opening to turn inside out.

Trim the corners.

Fill the pincushion with polyfill or some batting scraps.

Close the opening using a ladder stitch.

There you have it!

This is the second block on the pattern sheet.

“Tiffany” iPad patchwork shoulder bag

This is my third iPad carry bag. I take my iPad with my all the time and the fabric just wears out.

The first iPad carry bag I made had a patchwork flap. The second one I used embroidery for. And this time I just made a quick one. I called it Tiffany because the charm squares are from a Moda fabric collection with the same name.

Materials

  • 12 x 5 inch charm squares for the exterior
  • 20 1/2 x 9 in fabric for the lining
  • 2 pieces of batting measuring 21 1/2 x 10 in each
  • 45 inch strap
  • velcro

Instructions

Arrange your charm squares by twos as per picture and stitch together.

Now fold at 10 1/2 inch as per picture.

And draw a short line on each side as per picture. This mark is where the flap starts.

To make the flap, take a dessert plate or a plate that is almost as wide as the panel and place it on top as per picture.

Draw around the plate close to where you drew the short line. Then finish the drawing by adding a straight line between the curve and the 10 1/2 in marking on each side.

If you click on the picture below you’ll see a larger picture and will be able to understand what I mean.

Using the exterior rectangle as a guide, cut the lining piece.

Now you have both pieces, you’ll be cutting the flap at the same time.

Pin well and cut both pieces along the curve.

I wanted to add extra padding to the bag so I used 2 pieces of batting instead of one. You coud use heavy weight interfacing instead.

Cut the pieces of batting using the exterior as a guide. I trimmed off the flap on one of the batting pieces but as it turned out two would have been ok. Your choice.

Pin batting to the exterior.

Quilt any way you like. Lately I kind of like quilting in narrow lines. They look neat.

Trim off the extra batting.

Now place a piece of velcro about 2 inches from the top edge. I don’t like use velcro with adhesive because it always comes apart eventually. And if you stitch it as well as stick it, it ruins the needle.

Stitch around the velcro piece.

Now place the other piece of velcro on the lining part. To find the exact place where to add velcro, place the lining flap over  the exterior as if closing the bag.

Pin and stitch all around.

Now fold the lining piece making sure the straight edge aligns with the line marking where the flap starts.

Mark a 3 inch opening on one side to turn bag inside out.

Stitch around both sides leaving the gap as per picture below to turn the bag inside out.

Now do the same with the exterior. Sorry no photo. I forgot to take one.

Just fold the exterior piece right sides together making sure you align the straight narrow edge with the start of the flap markings. Pin well and stitch around both sides. Trim corners and turn inside out.

Adding the strap

For the first time I purchased a strap. Hopefully it’ll hold the shape better than the homemade ones.

Place the strap about 1 3/4 inch from the edge and pin on each side.

Stitch strap well on each side going up and forth several times. Do not stitch higher than 1/4 from the edge. We need 1/4 inch seam allowance when attaching the lining.

Now place the exterior inside the lining. Pull the strap down.

Align top straight edge and flap from exterior and lining. Pin well.

Stitch all around. Make sure the strap is out of the way.

Now turn bag inside out through the 3 inch opening.

The bag is almost finished.

Stitch the opening.

For neatness’ sake stitch around the flap as close to the edge as possible as per picture.

The bag is finished!

 

 

Hexy coin purse tutorial

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A couple of tutorials back I made a very simple coin purse. This time the coin purse is a bit more involved but it’s still an easy purse to make.

Materials

  • Scrap fabric for hexies and lining
  • 2 1/2 inch round purse frame
  • Matching stranded cotton to stitch frame to purse

Downloads

Instructions

Print hexies pattern and cut 57 shapes. Now, if you’ve never made a hexagon before check out my Scrappy flower hexagon quilt for instructions on how to make them.

Keep the papers in until you finish stitching the hexagons in the required purse shape.

Print the purse pattern and place over the hexies to make sure it is big enough. If your hexies are printed accurately there shouldn’t be any problem. In any case, adjust the size of the purse if necessary.

Place the pattern over the back of the hexies pieces.

And draw around.

Trim excess fabric off.

Now cut the lining pieces. Fold the lining in half to cut both pieces at the same time.

Cut the fusible interfacing in the same way.

Iron the fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the purse exterior.

Now make two markings where the purse hinges end.

Place both pieces right sides facing together and pin.

Do the same with the lining pieces.

Pin and stitch from marking to marking.

Now stitch marking to marking the exterior.

Time to trim off excess fabric and pinking the curved sides. Trim to about 1/8 inches from the edge.

Do the same with the lining but this time leave a 1 1/2 inch gap on the bottom to turn the purse inside out.

Turn exterior around.

Now let’s stitch exterior and interior together.

Place the exterior inside the lining as per picture.

Align the lining and exterior curves well.

Stitch around the curve on both sides and trim off excess fabric and make some cuts as you did before.

Turn purse  inside out through the opening in the lining.

Stitch the bottom of the lining.

The purse is done.

Now attach the frame with matching stranded cotton.

The hexie coin purse is done!