This is the third block in a series of 6. The blocks will be used to make a quilted bedhead.

See improv / free form quilt block number 1 and improv / free form quilt block number 2.

Materials

Matching fabrics in 4 solid colours plus some white. Choose colours with good contrast.

Block size

The finished block measures 10 ½ in.

Instructions

Start with two 12 ½ inch squares in contrasting colours.

Using the rotary cutter, cut both triangles in half in a curve like below.

Then cut the white piece into strips again using the rotary cutter or a pair of scissors.

Now start adding strips in other colours in between the white strips. To cut wavy pieces and sew them neatly, place the colour piece underneath the white strip and cut the colour strip along the white strip edge.

Important: Make sure the colour strips you cut are at least one quarter inch longer than the previous white strip.

Sew strips together.

I ended up with a shorter piece so I added an extra green strip at the end.

The width of the bottom piece now matches the top’s. Now we need to trim the curved top edge.

Place the bottom piece just under the top piece like in the picture and cut along the colour edge using a rotary cutter.

Now you are ready to pin both pieces and sew them together.

Pin both pieces.

Stitch along the edge and then make some cuts along the seam like in the picture so that when you iron it flat, seams to one side, the block will lay flat along the seam.

Iron flat and then trim it to 10 ½ inches square.

Here is the trimmed block!

This is the second block in a series of 6. The blocks will be used to make a quilted bedhead.

See improv / free form quilt block number 1.

Materials

Matching fabrics in 4 solid colours plus some white. Choose colours with good contrast.

Block size

The finished block measures 10 ½ in.

Instructions

Cut a rectangle at least 12 ½ long by 11 ½ or even a 12 ½ square. I started with a smaller piece and I had to add some fabric around the block to make it up at the end.

Now, using a rotary cutter cut the rectangle or square into strips. Wavy strips make for a nicer effect.

Then make some cuts along the strips.

Now make a cut next to the first cut to obtain a small rectangle or square and put aside.

Use the triangles you cut out to cut another piece of fabric. See picture below for an example. Here I added just ¼ seam allowance though I should in fact have added ½ allowance. If you add ½ allowance on each side your initial rectangle doesn’t need to be bigger.

Do this for each white piece to be replaced.

Place each piece where it will be stitched.

Mix the colours a bit.

Now start stitching each strip individually. And then all strips together.

I added an insert in a different colour between two strips to break the even design a bit.

Continue to stitch all strips and iron flat.

My seam allowance errors I made earlier made the block too small so I added an extra strip at the top and squared the block on the left.

The block is complete.

Now you just need to square it.

This is the first block in a series of 6. The blocks will be used to make a quilted bedhead.

Materials

Matching fabrics in 4 solid colours plus some white. Choose colours with good contrast.

Block size

The finished block measures 10 ½ in.

Instructions

Cut a 12 ½ x 12 ½ in square.

Cut the square in smaller squares/rectangles. An example is below.

Now start cutting each rectangle/square in half and add a strip of a contrasting colour to join back together.

Iron flat.

Cut joined piece in half again.

And join back again using the same contrasting fabric.

Continue to do the same and try and use strips of fabric which are uneven for a different effect.

Now we have 2 squares completed.

This time just cut a large rectangle in 3 pieces like below and join back together as we did earlier.

As you can see the block starts taking shape.

Cut another square in 3 pieces and substitute one of them for another colour as per picture below.

Now we have all the rectangles/squares done, let’s put them back together.

You can use here other fabric colours so that it doesn’t look all the same.

To close large gaps you can use different strips of colour.

And here is the finished block. The next step will be trimming the block to 10 ½ in which I’ll do later when all improv blocks in this series are completed.

Now you just need to square it.

Just in case you missed any of these tutorials last year, here’re the links again. They were the most visited tutorials in 2011.

1. Charm pack tote bag with inside pocket tutorial
2. Tote bag tutorial
3. Notebook cover tutorial
4. Kid’s draughtsman’s pouch tutorial
5. iPad slip cover with wrap around pocket tutorial

More information about how I am making this quilt.

View all the blocks I have done so far.

Flower Garden Path

Flower Pot

Four Winds

Friendship

Friendship Block

The Pink Chalk Team selected 5 favorites in 3 categories, and… this is the exciting bit… my Patchwork Christmas tree softie tutorial was selected as one of 5 in Category 3: Deck the Halls (Holiday Decorations). My trees didn’t win the competition but I enjoyed participating. Congratulations to the winner!

Materials

• fabric scraps for front, back and binding
• embroidery floss
• 14 ¼ inch elastic band

Download eye mask pattern (pdf).

Cut pattern out, place on the facing fabric and draw around it.

You can use any marker as the line will not be visible after you add the binding.

Using matching embroidery floss, stitch around the edges of the designs or in whatever pattern you like.

Detailed embroidery.

I only stitched on some of the designs.

And I used a variety of stitches as well as colours.

When finished, make a sandwich with the backing, batting and the facing fabric. Pin to hold together.

Stitch around the eye mask one quarter inch from the marked line.

Now you have the sandwich stitched together, it is time to trim the fabric.

Cut around the stitching line leaving a bit less than one quarter inch allowance.

Cut a 20 inch long bias strip.

Stitch the binding in place.

Fold the bias tape around the other side of the eye mask when done and pin.

At this stage insert the elastic band.

Pin in place.

Stitch by hand and you’re done!

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These are called quilted Christmas ornaments and you can make them in different ways.

I followed Random Rambling’s tutorial but there are others you can follow such as Project wedding or the one on Make Stuff. Plenty to choose from. You can watch a video which clearly demonstrates how to make a ball from beginning to end. You don’t have a polystyrene ball? Use a CD instead of a ball to make this ornament!

I have made a number of them and I can say that:

• using 2.5in squares instead of 3in squares for a 3 inch ball achieves better results
• high contrast fabrics and colours work better
• they make great Christmas presents
• they are great craft projects to make with children
• they are a good way to relax and get into the zen zone

In this part we’ll be finishing the bunting.

Firstly we will be making flags with the message MERRY XMAS.

Download the typography (pdf), print it and proceed to fuse it to the flags as you did in Part 1. You will need to transfer R and M twice as there’s only one copy of each letter in the download.

Cut 9 flags and fuse the letters to the flags.

Cut 9 triangles of one sided fusible interfacing and iron to the back of each flag.

Then draw the inside lines of each letter to make it 3D as per pattern.

Stitch around each line and around the edge of each letter as per picture below).

Now you will need to add some backing to each flag. Cut 13 triangles in a matching fabric or calico.

Place front and back flags right sides together and stitch around 2 sides leaving the top open to turn inside out. Trim the pointy end of the triangle before turning inside out.

Turn inside out and push the corner out with a pointy blunt instrument. Iron flat.

Top stitch each triangle around 3 sides leaving a one quarter seam allowance.

Trim the open end of each triangle.

The triangles are ready to be placed on a string.

Making the string

The strip of fabric we need to place the triangles in is 140 inches long.

The width of the strip is 1 ½ in wide.

Fold the strip of fabric in half and iron, then fold each side inside again and iron.

Fold the strip in half and pin it in the middle. Use this mark to place the first flag.

After pinning the first flag, continue to place a flag on each side leaving 3 ½ inches separation between flags.

After all flags have been pinned, top stitch along the strip.

Fold both ends of the string to make a hook as per picture.

Stitch.

All done.

This tutorial is in 2 parts. The first part will only deal with the applique of Christmas designs and the next tutorial will deal with the stitching of the lettering and putting everything together. The bunting is about 140 inches long.

Patterns

• Download free Christmas vectors (zip) from Spoongraphics for your applique
• Download bunting pattern (pdf). When cutting this pattern add 1¼ all around for seam allowance

Fabric needs

• assorted scrap fabric in white and red for the applique. Use fabrics that will have enough contrast so the design shows through
• assorted scrap fabric in white, green and red for the triangles
• lightweight fusible interfacing for the flags
• black thread
• felt scraps in beige
• stranded cotton in beige
• double sided interfacing for the applique

You can choose how much of the design you want to applique. Below you will find a close up picture of each flag where you can see what parts of each drawing I chose to fuse and applique.

Tracing and fusing the applique

Trace the applique on to the double sided interfacing. I only used interfacing for cotton fabrics. The felt pieces weren’t fused, just pinned in place and stitched by hand.

Cut each shape roughly leaving some space around each shape and fuse to the fabric, then to the triangles following the manufacturer’s instructions. I used Heat’n Bond, the light variety.

After ironing, cut each shape and place on the flag. Place all shapes together and fuse at once.

Draw the eyes, the snowman buttons and any other lines you will be stitching along.

After the fabric is fused, cut the felt pieces and stitch to the design. See the picture below for an example. Notice where I have drawn some lines on the reindeer legs.

Now iron on the lightweight fusible interfacing to the back of the triangle. The interfacing will make the bunting sit better but it will also act as stabiliser for the applique.

Now the fun part starts. Using black thread stitch all around the applique edges as in the original paper sketches. Don’t worry if your lines aren’t straight, mine are pretty rough. This is the first time I’ve used this technique so it was expected. Go around each line at least twice. I used the darning foot but didn’t lower the dogs so I could move the fabric enough. I found that I didn’t have so much control with the dogs down.

You will end up with a lot of threads at the end of it. Just cut them close to the fabric.

All done. I must admit I was a bit scared it would turn out to be a disaster but I quite like the result.

Close ups