Hand painted silk slippers pattern

The pattern is by Prudent Baby.

I made a couple of changes. First of all the pattern says it’s for size 9 but when I printed it the sole was a fit for size 7. As a result I didn’t use elastic on the back.

I decided to use hand painted satin silk and needed to add some body to the slippers so I added a layer of batting between the silk and the lining.

I couldn’t find the type of fabric suggested for the sole so I used some imitation leather I had.

I also decorated them with some silk flowers. I have seen this type of flower on the internet before but never tried it. I didn’t follow a tutorial so maybe I did something wrong. I cut some smaller and larger circles and then burned the edges. Since the silk wasn’t synthetic I’m not sure if the burning will keep the silk from fraying for a long time.

I placed the circles together and put some stitches through.

Then I pulled and did a few more stitches to keep the gather in place.

Then I added some sequins and beads in matching colours.

These slippers aren’t for every day use. They look fragile and probably are due to the use of silk but they look cute don’t they?

Folded star pot holder


I like fabric manipulations and fabric texture.

I have made a 25 textures quilt sampler and a 4-patch textured quilt with 15 more textures or fabric manipulations. And today I have yet another fabric manipulation to show you. It is made with prairie points which have been modified to reduce bulk.

There are many folded stars out there and different ways to make them. This one is just one of them.

Folded stars are a bit time consuming and this particular one requires hand sewing. But they look beautiful.


There are 4 rows of prairie points.

For each prairie point cut one rectangle 1 1/2 in x 2 1/2 in.

  • Row 1: 4 ochre prairie points
  • Row 2: 8 violet prairie points
  • Row 3: 8 ochre prairie points
  • Row 5: 16 violet prairie points


  • One 10 in square piece of muslin or calico.
  • Two 10 1/2 in square for the back and front.
  • Extra fabric for the binding.
  • One 11 in square of batting.

Modified prairie point

Take one rectangle and fold 1/4 inches in and press.

Then fold in half as per picture and press with your finger.

Take one side of the rectangle and fold it in as per picture.

Do the same with the other side.

Now you have a prairie point ready to pin.

Take the muslin or calico and find the center by folding it as per picture below. Press to mark the lines well.

Start pinning in the centre of the muslin piece.

You will need 4 pieces for this row.

Make sure all lines align.

Now stitch all points in the middle to the calico.

And then stitch along the bottom as per picture.

The first row has been completed.

For the second row you will need 8 pieces.

Use a ruler to establish the placement 1/2 in below the first piece as per picture.


Continue doing first opposite pieces.

Finish with the last 4 prairie points on the corners.

Stitch all the pointy ends and the the larger sides as per picture.

For next row you will need 8 prairie points again.

Proceed as per the previous row. Place at 1/2 in from the previous row, pin and stitch.

The next row and last requires 16 prairie points.

Place them as the previous row and then add 8 more prairie points overlapping as per picture.

Stitch pointy ends and larger edge to the calico.

Your folded star is done.

Now take the 10 1/2 in square and make a circle smaller than the filed star.

Draw your circle.

Place piece over the folded star.

Now fold the fabric about 1/8 in all around the circle and pin.

Top stitch as close to the edge as possible.

Cut the muslin to reduce bulk.

Now make a quilt sandwich placing the backing wrong side up, the batting and the folded star on top.


Quilt in circles using the foot’s edge of your machine as a guide.


Now trim off excess batting.

Ready to add binding.


Foundation piecing pot holders


This is what you can do with last week’s block: a pot holder you can give away as a quick gift to teachers, family or friends.


If you missed last week’s post, go and check out the foundation piecing tutorial.

I have limited experience with foundation paper piecing but I find it most useful to produce beautiful complex looking blocks while minimising the inaccuracies of cutting and stitching individual pieces together. It doesn’t mean your blocks are perfect every time, far from it, but in my experience the blocks look better, flatter and more achieved.

Piecing blocks are usually made into quilts but I have found another use for them as pot holders to give away to teachers, family members or friends.

For my pot holders I have used the free foundation piecing templates from 627handworks.

Caldonia pattern (pdf)

Icky Thump pattern (pdf)

Zeppelin pattern (pdf)

Making the pot holder

You will need some extra fabric for the back and some batting.

Use the finished block size to cut a square of fabric which is about 1/2 inch bigger  than the block on all sides. Cut a piece of batting the same size as the back.

Make the sandwich placing the back fabric wrong side up, then the batting and the block on top as per picture.

Quilt any way you like. I didn’t use my quilting foot this time and used the regular foot width instead to guide me between lines which is about 1/4 in to 3/8 in.

Trim very close to the edge after quilting.

Nearly there!



Add the binding. Cut a strip of fabric long enough to cover the block all around plus the corners. I cut my strip 1 1/2 in wide.


There’s a good tutorial on how to add binding to your quilt at quiltbug.com.

Closeups of quilting and piecing