Revisiting improv patchwork tutorials

A series of blocks and mini quilts made using improvisation techniques.

The techniques do not belong to any book. I just use my scissors and a vague idea in my mind of what I want to achieve which does not always correspond with what the final block looks like, but that’s where the fun is. I try to use 1/4 inch seams but sometimes the seams turn out slightly wider or narrower. I tend to press to the side the seam goes naturally though I also press open where there is a lot of bulk.

The process to create the blocks are demonstrated using lots of pictures.

1. Free form, free motion patchwork
2. Free form patchwork mini quilt – visual creative process
3. improv / free form quilt block number 1
4. Improv / free form quilt block number 2
5. Improv / free form quilt block number 3
6. Improv / free form quilt block number 4
7. Improv / free form quilt block number 5
8. Improv / free form quilt block number 6
9. Improv / free form patchwork headboard cover
10. Reversible tray cover

Reversible tray cover using improv piecing and embroidery

This tray cover is made using patchwork improv blocks as well as embroidery. The cover is reversible.

Materials

Scrap fabrics in coordinated colours.

Embroidery pattern

• Download “L’heure du thé” (Tea time) embroidery pattern (pdf)

Embroidery stitch: stem stitch (watch video).

Measure your tray

All the measurements are for my tray. Yours will likely be different so you will have to measure it in the following way.

First measure the inside width and length.

My tray has different heights around the sides so I need to  measure both sides separately.

Measure from the base of the tray all around on each side. One of the sides on my tray has a bump and it is higher. This is where I will measure the height.

Then measure the height on the side.

The measurements of my tray:

• 12 1/4 x 16 1/4 inches for the base
• 12 1/4 x 5 for the higher side
• 16 1/4 x 3 3/4 for the lower side

All the measurements from now on are based on the measurements above. You will need to adjust yours.

Making the embroidery side of the cover 

For the embroidery only side cut:

• one rectangle 12 3/4 x 16 3/4 inches for the base (I added 1/2 for the seam allowance)
• 2 rectangles 12 3/4 x 5 1/2
• 2 rectangles 16 3/4 x 4 1/2

Trace the words in the middle of the larger rectangle. “L’heure du thé”: Tea time.

And embroider them. I chose a variegated thread to add some interest.

Making the improv blocks

The foundation of the improv blocks is based on the size of the embroidered words.

Given the size of the tray, I worked out that I needed 4 improv blocks: 6 1/2 x 8 3/4 inches each.

To start cut 4 rectangles to fit the 4 words in them:

• tisane: 5 x 2 1/2
• thé: 4 x 2 1/2
• chai: 4 1/2 x 2 1/2
• infusion: 5 1/2 x 3 1/4

Now is when you start building the blocks. I basically just added strips around the main rectangle starting with a little strip on the opposite direction to give the blocks some interest.

Start cutting wonky strips. The length of my strips were 10 inches. Always use inches longer than required for your final rectangle so you will be able to trim your blocks to size.

You can see the process that I followed in the next photographs.

First I added some strips to the main rectangle to make it a full piece and then added the strips to the sides.

I used fabrics with lots of contrast.

My blocks are not big enough so I kept adding strips to each side until the blocks were big enough that could be trimmed to size, i.e. bigger than the required 6 1/2 x 8 3/4 inches each by at least 1 to 2 inches.

When you reach the required size, stitch the blocks together.

The embroidery is placed alternating longer and shorter words so that the visual result is more balanced.

Stitch all blocks together.

Embroidery

Do the embroidery before trimming.

Trace the words on to the middle rectangle.

Embroider the letters using matching thread. I used a hoop because the results are a lot neater. I find a small hoop easier to use than a large one.

The embroidery is finished.

Embroidery closeups

Quilting the sandwich

Do not trim the rectangle yet.

Cut a piece of batting as large as the rectangle.

Pin in place. No backing fabric is used.

Quilt. I used stipple quilting.

Then trim to size.

Trimming the back of the cover

Now that the front and back rectangles are done, we need to assemble the cover.

First trim the embroidered tray cover side using the quilted side so that both rectangles are the same size.

Adding the flaps 

Take the rectangles you cut at the start.

Pin them to the side and stitch.

Do the same with the other sides.

Press seams open.

Do the same with the improv side.

Sew and iron with the seams open.

Adding the ties

Cut 8 pieces of ribbon 9 inches long each.

Place both sides of the tray right side facing together.

Place one ribbon about 1 inch from the edge on each of the 8 sides as per picture below.

Pin well.

Stitch all around leaving a 3 inch opening to turn cover inside out. Trim the corners.

Turn inside out.

Iron well.

Top stitch on the seam line around the rectangle and then top stitch around the outer edges as close to the edge as possible.

The tray is finished.

The reverse side of the cover.

Both sides are quite different. The improv side is rather busy whereas the other side is quite the opposite.

I don’t know which side I prefer.

Spanish lace bobbins holder tutorial

Materials

• Cotton fabric: solids and inside print
• 100% linen for the grey background fabric

The piece measures 10 1/2 x 24 1/2 inches. The top flap is optional and is 3 inches high.

The holder takes 48 bobbins, 24 on each side.

The inside pocket panels are 25 x 8 1/2 inches each. They are folded in half and sewn to the back fabric at 1 inch intervals.

Outside panel

Measurements chart – assembly diagram

Cut:

• E: 1 x 24 1/2 inches – cut one
• F: 1 3/4 x 5 in wide strip – cut 4
• G: 1 1/2 x 5 in wide strips inserted in between solid colour strips – cut 16
• Colour strips are 2 inch wide. Heights below:

1A: 1 1/2	2A: 1	3A: 2 1/2	4A:1	5A: 1 3/4	6A: 3 1/2	7A: 1 1/2	8A: 3	9A: 1 1/2
1B: 2 1/4	2B: 2 3/4	3B: 1 3/4	4B: 3 1/4	5B: 3 3/4	6B: 1 1/4	7B: 1 3/4	8B: 1 1/4	9B: 3 1/4
1C: 2 1/4	2C: 3	3C: 1 1/4	4C: 2 1/2	5C: 3	6C: 1 3/4	7C: 2 3/4	8C: 3 1/4	9C: 1 3/4
1D: 2 1/2	2D: 1 1/4	3D: 3	4D: 1 1/4	5D: 1	6D: 2 1/2	7D: 1	8D: 1 1/2	9D: 1 1/2

• The little white strip between the solid colours is 1 inch wide, i.e. 1/2 in when sewn. Cut 18 1 x 2 inch rectangles.

Each side is 5 inches high. Cut the following pieces in grey linen to fill in the gaps:

• 2 x 1 inches – cut 11 pieces
• 2 x 2 inches – cut 5 pieces
• 2 1/2 x 2 inches – cut 1 piece

Stitch the grey pieces to the solids.

Now you need to stitch the strips in between the solids. From the assembly diagram above:

• F: 1 3/4 x 5 in wide strip – cut 4
• G: 1 1/2 x 5 in wide strips inserted in between solid colour strips – cut 16

Stitch together and trim each rectangle to 5 1/2 inches high.

Now cut the central strip to join both sides together.

The outside panel is now finished. Iron well.

Adding a flap

This step is optional.

The flap is 3 inches wide. If using one, cut a 24 1/2 x 3 in strip the same fabric as the background fabric and stitch to one side of the front panel.

Inside of folder

For the inside, you will need a backing fabric that measures the same as the outside you just completed if not using a flap.

IF USING A FLAP, cut the rectangle 3 inches larger.

Cut 2 rectangles:  25 x 8 1/2 inches each and fold in half and iron flat.

If adding a flap to the folder, make a tube with one of the rectangles by folding the rectangle in two with right sides facing together and stitching along the seam. Then turn inside out. See photo below.

Pin the rectangles in place and mark the stitching lines for each bobbin at 1 inch intervals.

Pin well as you mark the fabric.

Pay attention to the placement of the bobbin pockets if using a flap.

If not using a flap, place both pocket panels on each edge of the backing fabric. If using a flap, stitch the bottom of the bobbin pockets on the side facing the flap.

Stitch on each marked line to make the pockets.

Put the folder together

Cut a piece of fusible interfacing the same size as the front panel. The interfacing will add instability to the linen.

Place some ribbon aligned with the black strip on the front of the folder. The picture below shows the wrong placement because the flap will be folded and therefore the ribbon will not be in the middle of the roll

Place front panel on top of the pockets panel right sides together and pin in place. Mark a 3 inch opening where you will be turning the folder inside out.

Stitch all around leaving a 1/4 in seam allowance.

Iron well and top stitch all around the folder.

The folder is done. You can see on this photo that the ribbon was repositioned to coincide with the black middle strip.

Closeup.

Front closeup.

The bobbins fit nicely.

The folder can be rolled open or folded in the middle. When used open, just fold the flap inside as per picture.

If used folded in half, use the flap to keep both sides together.

The roll is quite small if folded in two.

Et voilà!

I quite like it.

If you make one please share your photos of the finished product in TeresaDownUnder projects Flickr group.

Spanish lace

Image by Wikimedia